Don Det & 4,000 Islands, Laos

It has taken me a few lazy days to realize, but I finally looked around and saw where I am. Surrounded by the sounds of waterfalls and running water, I am on a small island never too far away from the flowing Mekong. People here seem to live for today and only today. They sleep in hammocks by the road, and tiny-sized cats, dogs, chickens, ducks, cows, & buffalo wander about freely. Yesterday, a pig marched right up to me and demanded to know what I was doing on his path. I don't speak pig, so I just pressed my hands together in front of my chest and said "Sa ba lai."

The majority of transportation here happens by foot or on an old bicycle. There are some autobikes, but these can be particularly difficult to maintain upright considering the quality of the roads. [Think - small scale, Mongolia.] Food can be bought, caught, or picked off of the trees surrounding the roads and eaten leisurely. Women and children work in kitchens and fields, bathing in the Mekong when they get hot, and snacking on sticky rice during the day. Everybody spits, even babies. Women in the fields chew beets with tobacco leaves inside for a soft buzz, but remained stained of lips and mouth for the rest of their lives with the dark purple red of the beet. Peace and tranquility reign supreme and even the occasional dog fight stops around 11 pm.

Electricity happens only through generators, which are turned on from around 6:30 - 9:00pm in most guest houses. This stays on till about 11 at the most hip bars. Around 11, the island sleeps. I think there is a curfew in Laos, but I haven't seen any enforcers. Come to think of it, I haven't seen any police or security of any sort, or firehouses, hospitals, clinics, banks... Houses dot the road on stilts. These houses occasionally have signs indicating the vocation of its inhabitants, "Bungalow," "Happy Pizza," "Bicycle rent," "laundry," "cafe," "bicycle repair." Some houses have many signs.

Last night I finally ate with Salad and his family. This is the family who owns the bungalow where I am staying. Salad likes to wait in the hammock outside my room until I wake up, come back, finish showering... I've started to become relatively firm with him, but perhaps this is without reason. Maybe he just needs a friend. He studies in Vientaine but is at home because his sister in in the hospital with a grave brain illness. The hospital is far away, so his mother is with her while the family runs the business. Last night, like every night, they invited me to dine with them. This was one of the best meals I've ever had. Ever. Laos style ceviche, fish soup, grilled fish (both caught from the Mekong), fresh chillies, limes, and mint with sticky rice in a bamboo case. Divine...

I have been renting a bike everyday, reminicent of my days in Cambodia, and riding along the two connected islands. Today I went to a beach and made poop sand castles like I used to do when I was a kid. This is when you let the sand and water drip out from between your hands. This always looks a little like poop. There is no actual poop involved. Hopefully...

I got an awesome email today from a friend who told me she was reading my blog. I'd love to hear from any of you who read. What do you think? Any advice? Questions? Errors? I write this to keep in touch with all of you, so don't be shy. I'm sending my love and joy to you right... now.